Looking at the climatic and geographical conditions of the Philippines you would think it is a major producer of cacao. However, this is not the case. Production volumes are low compared to other cacao producing countries in the region. And only a very small share of the production qualifies as specialty cacao. The good news is, Silva’s partner Auro is one of the few producers developing specialty cacao – different qualities, each with a unique and distinct flavour profile. Let’s take a closer look at the cacao landscape of the Philippines.

350 Years of Cacao

Between 1565 and 1815 Spanish galleons sailed back and forth between Acapulco in Mexico and Manilla in the Philippines carrying precious cargo like silk, spices, ivory, wine and silver. Also cacao made the voyage from Mexico to the Philippines, as it was a valued product, which was not available in the Philippines. Until 1670, when some cacao seeds were brought to Manilla as a gift. Conditions in the Philippines turned out to be perfect for cacao cultivation: the climate is tropical and humid, annual rainfall is about 2,000 mm and evenly spread throughout the year, and the country has a rich volcanic soil. With the arrival of the first Criollo seeds from Mexico, the Philippines was the first country in Asia to grow cacao.

Philippine Cacao in Numbers

Local annual production of cacao is estimated between 10,000 and 15,000 tonnes, most of which is produced in Davao region of Mindanao, the most southern island of the Philippines. Local consumption is 50,000 MT, so there is a shortage of 35,000 to 40,000 tonnes of cacao each year, which the country imports. Some fifteen years ago the Government of the Philippines started to invest in the cacao sector and production has grown steadily. Most cacao can be qualified as bulk, but a growing number of local farmers and cacao cooperatives is investing in better cacao genetics, farming practices and post-harvesting control in order to produce specialty cacao. Since a few years chocolate made with Philippine cacao begins to receive international accolades from leading chocolate authorities, like the Academy of Chocolate and The Great Taste Awards. In 2019 Auro Paquibato cacao received an International Award of “Cocoa of Excellence” at the Salon du Chocolat in Paris. For the first time ever, Philippine cacao was recognized as one of the best 50 cacaos in the world.

Genetics

Cacao farmers, chocolate makers and many others involved in this industry can debate for weeks – or longer – about the pros and cons of single variety cacao. Some are convinced single variety cacao is flavour in its purest form, others state that a combination of varieties adds to the flavour complexity of the cacao. Whatever their opinion, all people agree that it is hard to grow single variety cacao. Cacao trees are not very picky in their pollination partners, and cross-fertilisation happens quickly. So it is necessary to grow trees from one variety far from others if single variety cacao is your objective.

The National Seed Industry Council (NSIC) of the Philippines approved and registered 9 varieties of cacao. Apart from these 9 varieties, there are of course many more cacao varieties present on the Philippines. After 350 years of cacao cultivation it would not be possible to have only 9 varieties.

Silva Cacao Qualities from Philippines

Our cacao qualities grow on farms that are all located in the same area of Davao Region in southeast Mindanao. Despite the proximity of the farms, each of the cacaos qualities has a distinctive flavour profile. Different genetics and post-harvesting protocols result in this flavour diversity.

Mana: This cacao is produced on one farm (single estate), and consists of 5 selected bean varieties. Their combination results in a flavour explosion of fruits, sweetness, nuts and floral notes. And all of this on a bed of chocolate flavour.

Harana: Eight farms are producing Harana cacao, which is from a single variety BR 25. Harana has remarkable floral fragrances, hints of orange blossom and mint, sweetness and fruitiness of berries and a balsamic undertone.

Regalo: Regalo is another single variety cacao from UF 18 (we never promised interesting names), a trinitario variety. Its flavour profile is like a walk in a forest during autumn with freshness of mint and green apple, green tea, pinewood, and subtle hints of dried apricot and pepper.

Paquibato: A small cacao cooperative produces Paquibato, which is a selection of five Trinitario varieties. Its remarkably balanced flavour profile combines fresh fruity acidity with sweetness of yellow and tropical fruits and mild roasted peanuts, all placed on a bed of chocolate flavours. Paquibato was awarded by the Cocoa of Excellence Awards in 2019, which was the first time ever a Philippine cacao was part of the 50 best cacaos worldwide.