While still at origin, a number of tests are performed on cacao. Producers examine the quality of their processing, from the fermentation box to the end of the drying period, through smell. After drying, cacao samples are roasted and a taste profile test is performed using cacao liquor (this is made by grinding the roasted beans into a paste).

Cut tests are used to evaluate cacao bean health. They are also a way to assess whether or not a batch of cacao has been correctly fermented.

Katrien Delaet, co-owner of Silva Cacao, tells me a cut test is “cutting the beans into two with the purpose to analyze the level of fermentation,” and that it is a way for producers to evaluate “problems that might have occurred, like infestation or defects due to pests.” 

Producers also check that the beans’ germ and cotyledon (the white web in raw cacao beans) have died off, and look out for any grayish-white evidence of mold. If the beans have germinated or have mold, they can’t be used.